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LA Blade White House correspondent Christopher Kane shares his love and passion of cooking writing in his weekly Sunday column
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The LA Blade’s intrepid Washington D.C.-based White House correspondent snarks his way through another delicious weekly recipe while dishing tea on other subjects…
WASHINGTON – Remember my fried chicken column? Where I was talking about how many regional variations of the dish there are? And how wonderful it is to live in a world where we can have different types of fried chicken?
Same principle applies to dumplings. (Wow, do I like comfort food!)
The first time I had pelmeni was at Spacy Cloud, a vegan restaurant where my Russian friend worked as a server-bartender. So, while this recipe calls for a 50-50 mixture of ground beef and pork breakfast sausage, I can tell you meatless alternatives work wonderfully.
Recipe adapted from the cookbook of Yekaterina (Katya) Dobronravova-Levesque M.D.
Make the dough & filling
Assemble, boil & serve the pelmeni
Ladle the dumplings into bowls along with the salted, starchy water. Serve with sour cream (or crème fraiche, which is almost always my preference) along with heaps of dill
Kane’s Cuisine: Vietnamese beef stew & summer rolls
Kane’s Cuisine: Vietnamese beef stew & summer rolls
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Kane’s Cuisine: Alison Roman’s Matzo ball soup
Kane’s Cuisine: Melissa Clark’s coq au vin
Kane’s Cuisine: An impressive-looking phyllo fruit tart
Kane’s Cuisine: Tangy soy-glazed meatballs
Kane’s Cuisine: Drunken noodles, ingredients by Momofuku
Kane’s Cuisine: Thanks, it’s giving
Kane’s Cuisine: Spicy chicken curry ramen-noodle soup
Kane’s Cuisine: Send noods
LA Blade White House correspondent Christopher Kane shares his love and passion of cooking writing in his weekly Sunday column
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The LA Blade’s intrepid Washington D.C.-based White House correspondent snarks his way through another delicious weekly recipe while dishing tea on other subjects…
WASHINGTON – It’s cold here. I shall be making soups and stews until further notice.
Last night, I was craving pho but didn’t have time to make a proper broth. Thankfully, I discovered a recipe by David Tanis (of Chez Panisse fame) for bò kho, a Vietnamese braised beef stew that’s flavored with many of the same warm spices.
Folks, it’s a keeper.
And then, as I was evaluating options for a side salad, it occurred to me: summer rolls. Do you have rice paper and fresh veggies? Good news! You can make them too. It’s easy. Low effort, high reward, and it looks impressive.
Bò kho (beef stew):
Gỏi cuốn (summer rolls)
Serve with soy sauce, sriracha, hoisin sauce…or make a quick peanut sauce by combining 2 tablespoons hoisin sauce, 1 tablespoon peanut butter, 1 tablespoon water, ½ tablespoon fresh lime juice, and ½ tablespoon honey
LA Blade White House correspondent Christopher Kane shares his love and passion of cooking writing in his weekly Sunday column
Published
on
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The LA Blade’s intrepid Washington D.C.-based White House correspondent snarks his way through another delicious weekly recipe while dishing tea on other subjects…
WASHINGTON – I hope you’ve missed reading these as much as I’ve missed writing them (to say nothing of the grocery shopping, prep work, cooking, staging, photography, and photo editing)!
Like Kevin McCarthy, you just can’t get rid of me. Seriously, though, can we take a moment to acknowledge the stick-to-itiveness that was on display last week? And for a job! Who wants a job – any job – that badly?
I don’t know what was more intense, the fight between McCarthy and Matt Gaetz or the way Larsa confronted Julia with the cheating rumors on “The Real Housewives of Miami” as the ladies were filming Adriana’s music video on a yacht.
Anyway, when my husband and I were invited to a Christmas Eve dinner hosted by some LGBTQ Russian asylees, I wanted to bring something comforting. Enter Alison Roman, a reliable source of inspiration for me always and forever.
With her latest Home Movie, Roman once again had the answer I was looking for. What’s more comforting than a warm bowl of chicken broth featuring aromatic veggies, shredded chicken, matzo balls, and heaps of dill?
(The only edit I made was removing the chicken after it was cooked through, shredding the meat, and adding it to the soup at the end.)
I was expecting my matzo balls to be the star of the show, but our hosts had prepared such a gorgeous and delicious feast that it was merely a nice accompaniment to a fabulous dinner party.
спасибо!
LA Blade White House correspondent Christopher Kane shares his love and passion of cooking writing in his weekly Sunday column
Published
on
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The LA Blade’s intrepid Washington D.C.-based White House correspondent snarks his way through another delicious weekly recipe while dishing tea on other subjects…
WASHINGTON – I bought myself this lagoon-colored Dutch oven for Christmas, and Melissa Clark’s fabulous coq au vin – a rich, hearty French chicken stew – felt like the perfect dish for its maiden voyage.
It’s also an ideal holiday food, far superior to a turkey or Christmas ham in my humble opinion.
(Since I made no adaptations to the recipe, here it is, from NYT Cooking: Coq au Vin)
Now, notwithstanding the gorgeous photos that my husband took for this article (and the picture accompanying Clark’s recipe), coq au vin is generally not a very Instagrammable dish.
Here’s the thing, though: neither is most of the food we’re eating this time of year. Save your pictures of beautifully colored $28 Erewhon salads until after the New Year, please.
And more importantly, while the dish can be a bit lackluster visually-speaking, coq au vin more than compensates in the flavor department; complex and satisfying, appealing to most palates but also very characteristically French.
So, maybe it won’t join the ranks of turkey stuffing and apple pie, but this is precisely the kind of meal I want to be enjoying right now, at this time of year in which eating is about more than just sustenance and comfort food is about more than just indulgence.
I urge you to try it and see for yourself.
…and if the experience gives you an appetite to explore more French recipes, check out Clark’s NYT Cooking page. (I also highly recommend her cookbook “Dinner in French,” a goldmine for cuisiner en français.)
LA Blade White House correspondent Christopher Kane shares his love and passion of cooking writing in his weekly Sunday column
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The LA Blade’s intrepid Washington D.C.-based White House correspondent snarks his way through another delicious weekly recipe while dishing tea on other subjects…
WASHINGTON – If you are in the mood for a challenge, a real baking project, there are recipes online for DIY phyllo dough – each unleavened sheet of which must be stretched and pulled by hand until it’s razor-thin, ideally across a marble topped table.
I really mean it when I say store-bought is fine. Ain’t nobody got that kind of time (or patience).
Melt a handful of bittersweet chocolate chips with two tablespoons of butter in the microwave for 30 seconds. Whisk until smooth and drizzle over both halves before stacking them
LA Blade White House correspondent Christopher Kane shares his love and passion of cooking writing in his weekly Sunday column
Published
on
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The LA Blade’s intrepid Washington D.C.-based White House correspondent snarks his way through another delicious weekly recipe while dishing tea on other subjects…
WASHINGTON – When it comes to the small details that elevate the appearance, if not the quality, of food that you’re serving to guests, skewers, like edible flowers, are a light lift.
Pierce a few meatballs and cubed pineapple slices and voila! Good to go.
I wanted something Asian inspired, but Alison Roman has the best meatball recipe I’ve ever used, so I opted to make hers and add a glaze at the end – soy sauce based, so I reduced the salt slightly.
LA Blade White House correspondent Christopher Kane shares his love and passion of cooking writing in his weekly Sunday column
Published
on
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The LA Blade’s intrepid Washington D.C.-based White House correspondent snarks his way through another delicious weekly recipe while dishing tea on other subjects…
WASHINGTON – Every recipe I’m seeing this week is some spin on Thanksgiving leftovers, and the only one I would even consider trying is the turkey ramen dish featured in The New York Times Cooking.
I’m here to cleanse your palate and show you something you’d like to eat even when you’re sick to death of eating and tired of even thinking about food.
Momofuku, I would like to thank you for sending me the chili crisp and soy sauce used in this recipe (also pictured in this article). Both were fantastic and undoubtedly leveled up my interpretation of the classic Thai dish drunken noodles (Pad Kee Mao).
Recipe adapted from Julia Moskin’s adaptation of Hong Thaimee’s recipe (via The New York Times Cooking):
LA Blade White House correspondent Christopher Kane shares his love and passion of cooking writing in his weekly Sunday column
Published
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The LA Blade’s intrepid Washington D.C.-based White House correspondent snarks his way through another delicious weekly recipe while dishing tea on other subjects…
WASHINGTON – I have several recipes along with some excellent photos for you this week. But first, please stay with me through these long and digressive paragraphs because they are full of interesting factoids that I just learned about Thanksgiving and the traditions with which it is associated.
Evidence suggests that settlers in Plymouth colony did, in fact, share a meal with the Wampanoag people in what is now southeastern Massachusetts in late 1621. Historians believe the meat on which they feasted was deer, along with ducks or geese.
No turkey for the “first Thanksgiving,” but the bird nevertheless became a staple menu item for the holiday by the turn of the 19th century. Likewise for the December holiday, a phenomenon that is widely attributed to Charles Dickens’s publication of “A Christmas Carol” in 1843.
Fast forward to 1947. In the immediate aftermath of World War II, Europe was roiled by food shortages. Endeavoring to beef up our supply to aid these countries, which were on the brink of famine, President Harry S. Truman gently asked the American people to forego eating poultry on Thursdays – a request that he delivered with the first ever televised address by a sitting president.
It was met with a big middle finger.
(No surprise, right? I mean, during a pandemic that killed a million people in this country, when public health officials urged Americans to wear protective face coverings and avoid indoor gatherings, some responded by plotting to kidnap the governor of Michigan for a show trial and extrajudicial murder.)
Okay, so in 1947, Americans were tired after years of wartime food rations. Plus, that year Christmas as well as New Year’s Day fell on a Thursday, too. (Thanksgiving is always the last Thursday in November, per an 1863 proclamation by President Abraham Lincoln.)
So strong was the backlash that the Truman administration made peace by fully embracing the Thanksgiving turkey and formalizing the longstanding White House tradition of accepting the bird as an annual holiday gift.
Many presidents chose not to eat their turkeys.
Just three days before his 1963 assassination in Dallas, President John F. Kennedy was gifted a bird wearing a sign that read, “Good Eating Mr. President.” Fortunately for the turkey, which weighed a whopping 55 pounds, Kennedy reportedly said he would “let this one grow” upon returning her to the farm.
Nearly two decades later, facing questions over whether he would pardon Oliver North for his involvement in the Iran-Contra affair, President Ronald Reagan deflected with a joke about instead “pardoning” the Thanksgiving turkey that was gifted to him, thus formalizing a silly presidential tradition.
It is in keeping with these White House stories that I chose to forego turkey this year. I did, however, spend all day cooking, which is something I thoroughly enjoyed despite my husband’s photo of me looking less than enthusiastic.
See links below if you’d like to make any of the dishes pictured here. They were all fantastic.
LA Blade White House correspondent Christopher Kane shares his love and passion of cooking writing in his weekly Sunday column
Published
on
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The LA Blade’s intrepid Washington D.C.-based White House correspondent snarks his way through another delicious weekly recipe while dishing tea on other subjects…
WASHINGTON – It is my most fervent wish that you, dear reader, have not been trapped in a vortex of repetitively refreshing The New York Times and Twitter in search of the smallest actionable update on the status of our midterm elections. I want better for you.
My brain, on the other hand, has been poisoned by a decade in Washington.
On Tuesday, in addition to my nails and cuticles I ate the customary Election Day dish (pizza). Ditto for Wednesday. By Friday, it was time for something more refined.
I wanted to chop an onion and make something fabulous because regardless of the results of the midterms, at the very least we can breathe easy for a bit without being battered with overwrought takes from pundits and politicos. They don’t really know how things are going to shake out (and never really did, to be honest).
Today’s recipe isn’t topical or gimmicky. It’s just really good.
Serve with bean sprouts, cilantro or Thai basil, scallions, and red pepper flake
LA Blade White House correspondent Christopher Kane shares his love and passion of cooking writing in his weekly Sunday column
Published
on
By
The LA Blade’s intrepid Washington D.C.-based White House correspondent snarks his way through another delicious weekly recipe while dishing tea on other subjects…
WASHINGTON – Every time I see a box of Israeli couscous or Italian ditalini or fregola at the grocery store (or on Instacart), I almost always add it to my basket in anticipation of the next time I’ll make the dish featured in today’s column. Usually when I’m very hungry and it’s cold outside.
When I was in college, it was the cheesy, salty Kraft Easy Mac pouches, ready in under a minute with no special equipment beyond a microwave. You might consider this the grown-up version. I wouldn’t exactly call it “adult mac n cheese” though because that sounds a bit reductive. More like an adulterated version of cacio e pepe.
Serve with red pepper flakes, a drizzle of olive oil, chives, an egg yolk, and flaky salt
LA Blade White House correspondent Christopher Kane shares his love and passion of cooking writing in his weekly Sunday column
Published
on
By
The LA Blade’s intrepid Washington D.C.-based White House correspondent snarks his way through another delicious weekly recipe while dishing tea on other subjects…
WASHINGTON – Shout-out to Ken Sena and Erick Flores on their upcoming nuptials in Mexico because come Wednesday, I’ll be sipping margaritas by a pool in Oaxaca Centro. So, today we’re making Tex-Mex style enchiladas in honor of my upcoming vacation.
Recipe adapted from Sam Sifton via New York Times Cooking:
Distribute the remaining meat mixture and cheese mixture over the top. Bake for 10 to 15 minutes. Top with crème fraiche, cilantro, greenonions, and diced raw white onion
The end comes soon: Drums, drums in the deep
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